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February 21, 2014 § Leave a comment

 the problem with beginnings
is finding them…defining them unfolding them to ferret out tease out expose the story line buried under the haystack of one’s living; like the surfing story starts with a brain tumor or with Shaka-Ron or with the buick or maybe with my hard head or maybe with my grandmother who had the first acoustic neuroma or with my father who killed himself telling me pirate stories in the rowboat on Lac Marier or maybe it just starts at the waterline;50 year old woman, oldest beginning surfer in sonoma county…but what fun is that
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