March 11, 2007 § Leave a comment
July 29, 2006 § 1 Comment
1. Rule number one: HAVE FUN. The best surfer is the one having the most fun.
2. You’ll never have fun if you try to be cool.
3. When it’s time to stop, stop, but never quit.
4. You must be able to see the truck, or truck-equivalent, from the water.
The only one we ever broke isn’t on that list. Don’t get on a moving train.
And like most good tests it came up in the middle of a night on a side line out in the middle of nowhere and the only damn trains were moving ones.